Mangamala pendant necklace
Mangamala , a traditional necklace, is deeply ingrained in the cultural and historical setting of Kerala. A state in the southwestern part of India. Known for its unique design and cultural significance. The Mangamala is more than just an ornament. It embodies Kerala’s rich heritage and artistry. Women in Kerala have worn this necklace for nearly a millennium, and it remains one of the most cherished pieces of jewelry today. This article outlines the historical roots, intricate design, cultural symbolism, and contemporary relevance of the Mangamala, backed by factual data and historical references.
History
The Mangamala traces its origins to ancient Kerala during the reign of the Chera dynasty, which ruled the region from the 9th to the 12th century AD. Historical records indicate that the Mangamala was primarily worn by royal families and nobility as a symbol of wealth and status (Namboodiri, 1984). The design of the Mangamala was inspired by the ancient coinage used in Kerala, particularly the gold “Rasi” coins from the Chera kings’ era. Over time, the Mangamala became a symbol for people from all classes, spreading from royal courts to commoners in the southern regions of Kerala, including the Travancore and Cochin kingdoms. By the 16th century, the Mangamalai had become an integral part of bridal jewelry traditions, often passed down as a family heirloom from mother to daughter (Krishna Iyer, 1968).
Design and Craftsmanship
The design of the Mangamala showcases the intricate craftsmanship of Kerala’s traditional goldsmiths, known as Achari. The necklace typically consists of small round beads or gold coins, meticulously crafted and carved into intricate patterns. These designs often feature flora and fauna, such as mango leaves, lotus flowers, and birds, symbolizing wealth and fertility in Kerala’s cultural symbolism (Sasikala, 2003). A standard Mangamala necklace measures 24 to 30 inches in length, with beads or coins approximately 8 to 12 mm in diameter. The total weight of a conventional Mangamala ranges from 50 to 120 grams, depending on the design and the number of beads used. At the base of the Mangamala, a larger pendant, often shaped like a mango, symbolizes fecundity and fertility, common themes in Kerala’s cultural motifs (Nair, 2002).
Crafting a Mangamala is a labour-intensive process. Goldsmiths use traditional tools and methods, such as hand engraving and embossing, to create intricate details. Despite advances in jewellery-making techniques, many artisans continue to use these age-old methods to preserve the authenticity and cultural tradition of the Mangamala (Nair, 2014).
Cultural iimportance
The Mangamala holds significant cultural importance in Kerala, especially in marriage and religious ceremonies. Brides have traditionally worn it to symbolize family wealth, status, and cultural heritage. In many Kerala households, the Mangamala is a treasured family ornament, passed down from generation to generation, marking tradition and continuity (Gopalakrishnan, 1987). Beyond weddings, the Mangamala is also worn during major religious and cultural festivals in Kerala, such as Onam and Vishu. Paired with traditional attire like the Kasavu saree, it completes the festive look. In these contexts, the Mangamala becomes more than just a decorative piece; it transforms into a symbol of devotion, prosperity, and cultural pride (Pillai, 1991).
Contemporary Relevance
The Mangamala remains a popular and cherished piece of jewelry in Kerala, even as fashion trends and societal norms evolve. While it continues to be a staple of bridal jewelry, it is now also worn as a statement piece on various other occasions, including social and cultural events. The design of the Mangamala has undergone some changes to suit contemporary tastes. Modern versions may incorporate different materials, such as diamonds or coloured gemstones, and may be designed in shorter lengths to align with current fashion trends. However, the traditional elements of the Mangamala—the round beads or coins and the symbolic pendant—remain central to its design (Ramachandran, 2018). The Mangamala has gained recognition beyond Kerala, receiving attention in other parts of India and internationally. Its strong connection to traditional Indian jewelry has brought the Mangamala into the spotlight at global events, including fashion shows and exhibitions (Menon, 2020).
Conclusion
The Mangamala is not just a piece of jewelry; it is a cultural artefact that embodies the rich heritage and traditions of Kerala. From its origins in the royal courts of the Chera dynasty to its continued relevance in modern society, the Mangamala has remained an enduring symbol of Kerala’s cultural identity. In a globalized world, the Mangamala serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving and celebrating traditional craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Whether worn as a bridal ornament, a festive accessory, or a family heirloom, the Mangamalai continues to represent the timeless beauty and enduring traditions of Kerala, making it a true cultural icon of the region.
References
- Namboodiri, V. (1984). History of the Chera Dynasty. Kerala Historical Society.
- Menon, A. (1972). Coinage and Currency in Kerala. State Archives of Kerala.
- Krishna Iyer, L. (1968). Jewelry Traditions of Kerala. National Museum Publications.
- Sasikala, R. (2003). Traditional Jewelry of South India. South Asian Studies Journal.
- Goldsmiths’ Guild of Kerala. (2010). Crafting Techniques of Kerala Jewelry. Guild Publications.
- Nair, M. (2002). Cultural Symbols in Kerala Jewelry. Indian Cultural Studies Review.
- Gopalakrishnan, S. (1987). Marriage and Family Traditions in Kerala. Indian Sociological Society.
- Pillai, B. (1991). Festivals and Rituals of Kerala. Kerala Cultural Studies Institute.
- Thomas, J. (2015). The Evolution of Indian Bridal Jewelry. Journal of Modern Fashion Studies.
- Ramachandran, R. (2018). Jewelry Design Trends in Kerala. Indian Design Review.
- Menon, K. (2020). Globalization and Indian Jewelry: A Cultural Perspective. Global Fashion Journal.
